Bolgheri is where it all began on the Tuscan Coast, and even though Sassicaia was already attracting international acclaim by the time the first Bolgheri DOC was established in 1983, the authorities chose to regulate the production of whites and rosés, leaving vintners to follow their whims when it came to reds, which were all classified as table wine. Though this was obviously a slight to the red wines, it wasn't as negative as it may seem, because it gave the vintners tremendous freedom to experiment. Some chose to use exclusively French varietals, and others various mixtures of Italian and French. The DOCG established in 1994 recognizes the reds, while maintaining the freedom:
- Bolgheri Bianco can be made from: 20-70% Trebbiano Toscano 20-70% Vermentino 20-70% Sauvignon Blanc Up to 30% other varietlas authorized by the province of Livorno (e.g. Malvasia Bianca)
- Bolgheri Vermentino must contain at least 85% Vermentino
- Bolgheri Sauvignon must contain at least 85% Sauvignon
- Bolgheri Rosato is made from Sangiovese, Cabernet and Merlot, plus other red varietals authorized by the Province of Livorno
- Bolgheri Rosso and Bolgheri Rosso Superiore can be made from: 10-80% Cabernet Sauvignon Up to 70% Merlot Up to 70% Sangiovese Up to 30 % other grapes authorized by the Province of Livorno (e.g. Syrah)
- Bolgheri Sassicaia must be made in the Sassicaia subzone (Marchese Niccolò Incisa della Rocchetta's vineyards) and contain at least 80% Cabernet Sauvignon.
Yields?
100 quintals/hectare for whites, 90 for Rossi, 80 for Rossi Superiori and 60 for Sassicaia. With the possible exception of Sassicaia these are high, at least with vineyards planted to moderate densities. However, a number of producers are planting to very high densities; if one has 9,000 vines per hectare each yielding a kilo of grapes, the quality should be quite good despite a high yield per hectare because the individual vines are producing small amounts.
Cellaring?
As you might expect, most of the whites are released the spring following the harvest, as are the rosés. Bolgheri Rosso can also be released the year following the harvest. Bolgheri Rosso Superiore must instead mature for at least two years from the January following the harvest, a minimum of 12 months in wood and 6 months in bottle. Sassicaia also has to be aged two years, 18 months of which in barriques.
Having said all this, the wines tasted at the Bolgheri DOCG presentation on May 27 2011.
The Superiori (what everyone had come to taste) were almost all 2008s, though a few winemakers presented 2007 or 2006 wines. Though it's difficult to generalize given the small number of non-2008 wines, I had the impression that 2007 was more variable, and also more overripe.
The order is that in which the Bolgheri Superiore was presented, because it was the wine I started with, followed by a couple of wineries that didn't present reds:
Giorgio Meletti Cavallari
Giorgio Meletti Cavallari Impronte Bolgheri Superiore 2008 Deep almandine with black reflections.The bouquet is vinous and quite bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by savory accents and some sea salt, and slight brambles, with underlying mentholated spice and some graphite shaving bitterness. Vigorous. On the palate it's fresh, and fairly direct, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by brambly tannins that have some bitter dusky accents and flow into a clean brambly sour cherry finish. It's very young, and fairly aggressive, brings to mind a bramble parch in some ways, but is quite pleasant if you like this fairly aggressive style, and will work very well with grilled red meats, aging nicely for several years too.
2 stars
Donna Olimpia 1868
Donna Olimpia Millepassi Bolgheri Superiore 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and some brick tinges. The bouquet is fresh and opulent, with cassis and slight menthol supported by graphite shaving bitterness and some cedar, while there is also an underlying jammy sweetness that brings a starlet in a glass to mind. On the palate it's a little lighter than I expected, with less fruit and more dusky bitterness; the fruit is pleasant cassis, supported by moderate acidity and very smooth tannins that have considerable graphite shaving bitterness, and flow into a long graphite-laced finish with some savory note. Pleasant in a very international key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it considerably.
2 stars
Donna Olimpia Obizzo Bolgheri Vermentino 2010
Pale brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections. the bouquet is intense, with gunflint and bitter herbal accents mingled with some bitter almond and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with considerable bitter gunflint minerality supported by some mineral acidity, and flowing into a fairly long bitter finish with pleasant savory citric accents. Elegant, and displays pleasing deftness; it will work well as an aperitif or throughout the meal, and will be a pleasant summer wine.
2 stars
Donna Olimpia Agoghé Bolgheri Rosato 2010 Pale salmon with white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish vegetal-laced sour berry fruit supported by some sea salt and sour raspberry acidity. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with fairly rich sour raspberry fruit supported by moderately intense brambly acidity with slight greenish accents; it's pleasant, and extremely approachable; if you like wines with considerable verve and acidity you may find it less interesting, but a more average wine drinker will appreciate the fact that it is bright but not tremendously so.
2 stars
Ceralti Ceralti Alfeo Bolgheri Superiore 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is bright, and slightly balsamic, with sour berry fruit supported by slight stable straw and fairl warmth with slight green leather as well. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by savory bitterness and tannins that are quite smooth and flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a fairly direct key; it's a little scrappier than some, with brambly acidity that emerges proudly on the palate and carries through into the finish. If you prefer smoother more fruit driven interpretations of Bolgheri it won't work as well for you, but if you like more aggressive wines it will be quite good with mixed grilled meats.
2 stars
Ceralti Bolgheri Vermentino 2010
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is quite ripe, with tropical fruit mingling with slight sweetness and some citric accents, though what really comes out is the tropical fruit. On the palate it's fairly ripe, with warm pineapple fruit supported by some grapefruit acidity, and a far amount of warmth. It's a little more lavish than some, and a bit riper; with a hints of sweetness as well that continues into the finish, which has nice acidity and peppery accents.
2 stars
Ceralti Nubia Bolgheri Bianco 2010
Pale apricot orange with almost tan reflections; it brings onion skin to mind, and this is a bit unusual in a white from white grapes. The bouquet is odd, a fellow taster says muddled, with melon and some scalded milk and some savory notes. Perhaps an alternative fermentation method? On the palate it's savory, with fairly intense minerality and some peppery spice, and flows into a fairly long tart savory finish. The palate is more interesting than the nose, and the wine is more of a food wine than something to drink far from the table; it will be versatile and has the acidity necessary to work well with zesty summer foods.
1 star
Note: It's not the fermentation that's alternative, but, as I discovered when working through the key after the tasting, the grape: This is a Cabernet Sauvignon fermented In Bianco, made by pressing the grapes and separating the must from the skins before they have time to impart color.
Ferrari Iris
Ferrari Iris Bolgheri Superiore 2008
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange, looks old for a 2008. The bouquet is fairly intense, with a rush of mentholated spice mingled with cedar and some shellac, and a slight savory underpinning. A lot of oak, and at present it almost completely overshadows the fruit. On the palate it's smooth, with moderate berry fruit supported by slight mineral acidity and by tannins that are very smooth, displaying polish and chocolaty accents that are from wood. It's deft and smooth in a fairly powerful very international key, and there is fruit, or it wouldn't have managed to overcome the oak on the palate. This said, you should only consider it if you like this heavily oaked style, because it takes it to an extreme. If you prefer wines with more acidity and aggressiveness it won't work for you.
2 stars
Cipriana
Cipriana San Martino Bolgheri Superiore 2008
Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly powerful, with savory berry fruit supported by lively brambly acidity and greenish cedar with some penetrating spice, and slight menthol as well, and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's moderately intense, with br supported by considerable cocoa-laced very polished tannins that flow into a cocoa-laced cedar finish with savory underpinning. It's well made and quite polished, and also harmonious, though I found myself wishing for a little more fruit, which might have required rethinking the harmony, but would have given a little more excitement.
1 star
I Luoghi
I Luoghi Podere Ritorti Bolgheri Superiore 2008
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with savory berry fruit supported by moderate sour cherry acidity and slight minty accents, with underlying vegetal notes, and nice spice. It's rather graceful, in a lacy sort of way. On the palate it's not quite as bright as I expected; the fruit is fairly rich and quite ripe, with plums and hints of prunes, and is supported by moderate mineral acidity, while the tannins are very smooth, displaying considerable polish and quite a bit of cocoa that flows into a fairly long bitter chocolate-laced finish with a warm savory underpinning. Pleasant in a very international key, and if you like the style you will like it; the savory notes in the finish keep it from settling, and this is nice.
2 stars
I Luoghi Campo al Fico Bolgheri Superiore 2008
Brick ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with plum jam laced with cedar and balsamic warmth, with some wood smoke and sea salt as well. Also a fair amount of oak. On the palate it's not as rich as I expected; there is plum fruit, but is supported more by bramble than acidity, and by greenish vegetal accents and sea salt, while the tannins are smooth and sweet. My quibble is more stylistic than substantive because I tend to prefer acidity in wines, and here the fruit is working more with minerality and vegetal notes (the Cabernets?) and thus reaches a slightly different end. Well; if you like the style it will drink quite well with grilled meats or light roasts, and also will age nicely for up to a decade.
2 stars
Tenuta di Vaira
Tenuta di Vaira Bolgherese Bolgheri Superiore 2008 Deep pyrope, close to poured ink. The bouquet is bright, with cassis supported by sour berry fruit acidity and slight wet leaves, with some savory notes as well. Quite young. On the palate it's middle of the road in key, with nice moderately intense cassis fruit supported by fairly bright acidity and tannins that though smooth do have a hint of bramble to them and a fair amount of graphite shaving bitterness that flows into a clean rather savory sour currant finish with fairly bright greenish acidity. It brings to mind a wide-eyed smiling tomboy, and will drink quite well with grilled or roasted meats. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars
I Greppi
I Greppi Greppicaia Bolgheri Superiore 2008 Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with strong prune jam (home-made) supported by slightly balsamic acidity and a fair amount of cedar. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with warm sour prune fruit supported by warmth and tannins that are very smooth, and flow into a long sour prune finish with savory greenish bitterness that continues at length. If you prefer a sweeter cast of ripeness it won't work as well (if at all) for you, but if you like this style it will drink very well with hearty stews or roasts; Bolgheri's classic boiled boar's head comes to mind.
2 stars
Greppi Cupi
Greppi Cupi Rubino dei Greppi Bolgheri Superiore 2008
Deep pyrope ruby with black reflections; it's almost poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, with red berry fruit mingled with slightly greenish yellow peach, which a wood-fruit interaction, and some menthol too, as well as some spice. Nice depth in a muscular key. On the palate it's ample, with a different fruit cast than I expected; rather than red berry fruit there's plum/prune mingled with some vegetal notes and balsamic warmth, supported by smooth sweet tannins that have warm cedar and a savory underpinning that carries into the finish. Pleasant if you like the style, and will drink well with roasts or stews.
2 stars
Collemassari Grattamacco
Collemassari Grattamacco L'Alberello Bolgheri Superiore 2008 Slightly orange ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, though the next brings up menthol and some graphite shavings mingled with savory minerality and green bell peppers. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with fairly bright minerality and bell peppers supported by warm mineral acidity and by smooth cocoa-bitter chocolate tannins that flow into a long cocoa laced finish. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with red meats in the short term, and also age well for a decade or more.
2 stars
Collemassari Grattamacco Grattamacco Rosso Bolgheri Superiore 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit and a fair amount of cedar that has some milky accents; it's still rather disjointed. On the palate it's more together, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and smooth tannin that have some savory notes to them and some steely backbone, and flow into a long warm slightly balsamic berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, and one could drink it, though those blessed with patience will be richly rewarded; it has quite a ways to go in a graceful key.
88-90
Collemassari Grattamacco Bianco Bolgheri Vermentino 2010 pale brassy white with brilliant brassy gold reflections and white rim. The bouquet is charged, with white berry fruit supported by some butterscotch and as it opens greenish mineral accents that become quite intense, and slight scalded milk too. On the palate it's ample and more languid than the nose suggests, though there is some greenish bitter minerality to it. I'd have liked a little more bite to the acidity, which lacks verve.
1 star
Campo al Mare
Campo al Mare Baia al Vento Bolgheri Superiore 2008
Poured purple garnet ink. One could fill a fountain pen with it. The bouquet is powerful, with squeezed currant fruit supported by spice and some savory accents, and as it opens some stewed bell pepper; it's decidedly voluptuous, of the Jayne Mansfield in a glass sort. On the palate it's full, with rich cassis fruit supported by minerality more than acidity, and by tannins that are very smooth with an abundant graphite shaving burr, and by a fair amount of alcohol as well, and flow into a long bitter finish with an alcoholic underpinning. It's very charged, ripe, and quite opulent, and is a wine you should consider only if you like this style.
2 stars
Argentiera
Argentiera Bolgheri Superiore 2008
Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim The bouquet is intense, with riep cherry fruit supported by airy cedar and some yellow peach, and also by some cedary bitterness that increases in intensity as the wine opens. On the palate it's ample and rather bitter, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by minerality more than acidity and by tannins that are cedar laced with considerable bitterness, and flow into a decidedly bitter finish with underlying spice. The oak will fold in some with time, but the bitterness will likely remain.
1 star
Tenuta Argentiera Poggio ai Ginepri Bolgheri Bianco 2010
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with vegetal-laced lemony fruit supported by fairly bright citric acidity and some languidity, with gooseberry accents that bring Sauvignon to mind. On the palate it's bright, with lively vegetal-laced minerality supported by sour lemon acidity and tannins that have a slight burr and flow into a long greenish gooseberry finish that's quite savory. Pleasant, and will be versatile, working well as an aperitif with fish or vegetable based antipasti, and also be nice at table, with hearty fish or vegetable based pasta dishes, and also with fish, ranging from flavorful grilled fish through fried fish. Also with oriental.
2 stars
Tenuta Argentiera Poggio ai Ginepri Rosato 2010
Salmon with brilliant reflections and onionskin in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal accents and bitterness mingled with sour berry fruit and greenish apricot. It has verve. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by savory acidity and slight tannins; it's fairly zesty and versatile, and will drink well with a wide variety of foods, from creamy first course dishes through fried fish or even meats. In short, a versatile summer wine.
2 stars
Aia Vecchia
Aia Vecchia Sorugo Bolgheri Superiore 2008
Deep pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is quite ripe, with jammy prune fruit supported by warmth and a fair amount of green slightly stewed bell pepper. On the palate it's ample and rich, with cassis fruit supported by some balsamic warmth and greenish bell pepper, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm fairly sweet finish with cedar and fruit. It's quite approachable, in a rather direct way, and will drink quite well with foods that aren't too fatty. If you're looking for a wine to think about this isn't it, at least not for me, but if you want to set something out that your friends will drink and enjoy, this will do a fine job.
2 stars
Giovanni Chiappini
Giovanni Chiappini Guado de' Gemoli Bolgheri Superiore 2008
Inky pyrope with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory notes mingled with berry fruit and bell pepper, and some warmth, and as it opens brambly cedar that brings wet paper to mind. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by dusky acidity and warmth, and by very smooth tannins that though sweet to have a slight dusky cherty bitterness to them, and flow into a long cedar laced finish. It's quite international and quite approachable with nice balance and harmony; if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you are looking for a wine to think about, this one isn't going to work as well for you.
2 stars
Giovanni Chiappini Le Grottine Bolgheri Vermentino 2010
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is smoky, with some gunflint too, and some heather, and as it opens greenish vegetal accents also emerge. On the palate it's more languid than I would have expected, with slightly bitter minerality supported by mineral acidity and glycerin, while there is also peppery spice on the tongue, and it flows into a greenish rather vegetal finish with savory underpinning. A good food wine for the summer.
2 stars
Campo alla Sughera di Knauf
Campo alla Sughera di Knauf Arnione Bolgheri Superiore 2008 Deep pyrope with cherry rim; it's close to poured ink. The bouquet is rich, with powerful jammy cassis fruit supported by some menthol and slight spice, in a cinnamon cast; it's like sticking one's nose in a jam pot where someone put a sprig of mint. Harmonious and opulent. On the palate it's full and very smooth, with powerful cassis fruit supported by slight mineral acidity and by tannins that are very smooth, only revealing their youth in the finish, where some cedar emerges. If you like big, smooth, rich fruit driven wines that are quite ripe but not overripe you will enjoy it. Think MM in a glass (with that amazing dress she wore in Some Like it Hot) and you have an idea of the style.
2 stars
Campo alla Sughera di Knauf Achenio Bolgheri Bianco 2010
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with heather and some minerality supported by some greenish accents and hints of scalded milk; as it opens citric acidity also emerges. On the palate it's fairly direct, with bitter white berry fruit supported by minerality and some mineral acidity, and flows into a clean rather mineral finish. Direct, a wine that will drink well with simple summer dishes.
1 star
Campo alla Sughera di Knauf Arioso Bolgheri Bianco 2010
Pale brassy white with white rim. Paler than most. The bouquet is intense, with sweaty blonde -- almost redhead -- accents that I associate with Sauvignon, and some spice. On track, but a fairly nice track. On the palate it's bright, with lively vegetal-laced citric acidity supported by some sea salt and pleasant spice, and it flows into a long warm citric finish. Pleasant, and if you like the style, which is bright and fairly aggressive though not lemon juice, and the varietal, you will enjoy it.
2 stars
Tenuta San Guido
Tenuta San Guido Bolgheri Sassicaia 2008
Deep pyrope ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is greenish, with savory notes and greenish cedar that largely overshadow the fruit. On the palate it's ample, and rich, with moderately intense plum fruit supported by savory minerality and tannins that are rich and smooth, and flow into a fairly long smooth tannic finish. It's quite approachable in a rather brooding key; the fruit isn't as bright as I might have liked it to be, but if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars
Guado al Tasso
Guado al Tasso Bolgheri Superiore 2008
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of cedar and some wood smoke supported by alcohol and warmth, and some underlying jammy prune fruit. On the palate it's harmonious, with moderate prune fruit supported by warmth and cedar laced tannins that come to the fore, overshadowing the fruit. The overall effect is harmonious, but you have overtones like oaked wines. If you prefer wines that are more fruit forward it won't work as well for you.
1 star
Guado al Tasso Bolgheri Vermentino 2010
Pale brassy white with brassy highlights and slight hints of green too. The bouquet is bright, with lively greenish vegetal accents laced with citrus fruit and some sour lemon acidity. Charged. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich lemony fruit supported by some sea salt and moderate lemony acidity that flows into a warm rather soft citric finish. It's quite direct, and will drink well with foods.
1 star
Guado al Tasso Scalabrone Bolgheri Rosato 2010
Pale salmon with brilliant salmon reflections. the bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish sour forest berry fruit supported by hints of scalded milk and some spice. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by faint tongue tingling petillance that confers a peppery note to it, and by deft acidity. It's still coming together and could be better, perhaps even considerably better than it is now in the space of 2-3 months. A wine to reserve judgment on.
Tenuta Dell'Ornellaia
Tenuta Dell'Ornellaia Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore 2008 Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with cedar and some berry fruit mingled with savory notes and some spice; as it opens it brightens nicely, but is in any case very young. Harmonious too. On the palate it's full and quite smooth, with elegant cherry plum fruit supported by minerality more than acidity, and by tannins that are quite at the outset, though they do display a bell pepper laced cedary burr in the finish, with is quite long, with greenish cedary accents. It's not quite a work in progress but not finished either; this said it's quite elegant in a decidedly international key, and has the wherewithal to age well for many years.
2 stars
Castello di Bolgheri
Castello di Bolgheri Bolgheri Superiore 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by savory notes and a fair amount of bitter chocolate, and also by a fair amount of alcohol and some greenish brambly accents. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite smooth, with bright cherry fruit that has some jammy plum accents and is supported by deft mineral acidity and by tannins that are quite smooth, and flow into a clean bright slight greenish fruit laced finish. Harmonious, and though the pieces are assembled it's still coming together; quite elegant and will also age nicely for a decade at least.
2 stars
Sapaio
Sapaio Bolgheri Superiore 2008
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is elegant in a rather sumptuous key, with warm berry fruit at first sniff that gives way to balsamic acidity and slight mint; it gives an impression of vastness but is harmonious and nicely balanced. On the palate it's full, with rich warm cedar laced fruit supported by balsamic acidity and tannins that are fairly smooth at the outset, though they do reveal a cedary burr and flow into a long warm slightly bitter finish. It's quiet approachable and will drink well with succulent meats, though it will reward those with the patience to give it 5-8 years.
2 stars
Campo al Noce
Campo al Noce Riverbero Bolgheri Superiore 2007
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a rather pungent key, with some balsamic accents and wet stable straw mingled with warmth and some spice. On the palate it's mineral more than fruit driven, with ample graphite laced mierlaity that has some prune accents, and some bell pepper notes, and is supported by warmth, smooth tannins, and quite a bit of alcohol, while the bell peppers come out strongly in the finish. Coming on the heels of the 2008 vintage, it's much more brambly, and because of its alcoholic warmth will work well with succulent roasts or stews.
2 stars
Batzella
Batzella Tám Bolgheri Superiore 2007 Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is penetrating, with quite a bit of cedar at first swish, supported by bell pepper and berry fruit with some sea salt as it opens, while the cedar continues to provide a foundation. On the palate it's bright, with fresh lively sour forest berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm cedar laced burr with some cocoa overtones, and flows into a warm bell pepper laced finish with some savory minerality. Pleasant, with an invigorating brashness, and if you like the style it will work very well with a steak or a hearty roast, for example leg of lamb.
2 stars
Batzella Mezzodí Bolgheri Bianco 2010
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections. The bouquet is rather pungent, with vegetal notes and the heather of a Tuscan field supported by some gunflint and slight peppery spice. On the palate it's fairly direct, with greenish minerality supported by some white berry fruit and by greenish savory citric acidity that flows into a rather bitter finish. Direct, and will work quite well with foods, ranging from summery vegetable based pasta dishes or risotti though roasted or fried fish. Expect it to go quickly.
1 star
Batzella Pinsky Bolgheri Rosato 2010 Pale slightly pinker than onionskin pink. The bouquet is bright, with raspberry citric fruit supported by deft sour raspberry acidity and some alcohol. Fresh and young. On the palate it's light, with bright sour raspberry and red currant fruit supported by lively acidity and slight tannins that flow into a brambly tart finish. Perfect for fish at a cookout or with fried foods, and will also be a nice picnic wine.
2 stars
Michele Satta
Michele Satta I Castagni Bolgheri Superiore 2007 Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is eye opening; there's bright red berry fruit laced with sandalwood and acidity that makes me think of Aleatico and a fellow taster of fruit mixed with yogurt, and some sweetish jammy underlying accents too. Odd. On the palate it's bright, with bell pepper laced berry fruit supported by brambly acidity and tannins that have grilled pepper accents and considerable warmth, and flow into a long warm spicy finish with sandalwood accents. It marches to a different drummer, and if his beat is yours you will enjoy it. But only then.
1 star
Michele Satta Costa di Giulia Bolgheri Bianco 2010
Pale brassy white with brassy greenish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with heather and citric acidity and a certain underlying languidity. On the palate it's fairly direct, with greenish minerality supported by fairly bright sour lemon acidity that carries into a long sour lemon finish. A fine food wine that will work very well with fried fish or meats and vegetables, and other zesty summer fare as well, both fish and meat based. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars
Michele Satta Giovin Re Bolgheri Vermentino 2010
Brassy yellow with brassy lemony reflections and pale brassy rim. More charged than many of the others. The bouquet is ripe, with tropical fruit, a mix of loquat and banana supported by greenish minerality and acidity. On the palate it's ample, and rather soft, with warm citric fruit supported by soft citric acidity, and by slight greenish vegetal notes that also have peppery accents and flow into a lemony finish with unusual banana accents. It's bigger and softer than many, and also more charged. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style.
1 star
Caccia al Piano
Caccia al Piano Levia Gravia Bolgheri Superiore 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is unusual, with jammy prune fruit supported by some brandied prunes and slight lactic notes and spice, with some cedar. On the palate it's fairly bright on the outset, with rich berry fruit that's more to red berry fruit than I expected, supported by minerality and acidity, and by tannins that have greenish splintery burr and flow into a bell pepper laced finish with underlying tannic burr. It's more aggressive, and you have to like the style; if you do it will work quite well with a steak or roast.
2 stars
Antonino Tringali Casanuova
Antonino Tringali Casanuova Renzo Bolgheri Superiore 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit supported by some lactic notes, and as it opens jammy plum notes. On the palate it's full, with rich bell pepper laced fruit supported by savory acidity and by tannins that have dusky graphite shaving bitterness and flow into a fairly long bitter finish. It's pleasant in a middle of the road key, with fruit that's ripe but far from overripe, and tannins that have a steely elegance to them. If you like the style, which isn't particularly soft -- there's balsamic mineral acidity lurking about -- it will work quite well with grilled meats or roasts.
2 stars
Antonino Tringali Casanuova Bolgheri Rosato 2010
Pink with slight salmon accents and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up wild strawberries and some spice, and also slight greenish vegetal accents. On the palate it's fairly bright and savory, with savory minerality and acidity more than fruit, flowing into a savory finish with some tannic accents. It's direct, and will drink well with simple foods, and also be a nice picnic wine.
1 star
Tenute Guicciardini Strozzi
Tenute Guicciardini Strozzi Vignaré Bolgheri Superiore 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy with greenish brambly accents and bell peppers more than berry fruit, and some bright rather brambly greenish acidity. On the palate it's quite smooth, and rather bitter, with roasted green peppers supported by graphite shavings and warm savory acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and bright, with a warm peppery burr that continues into a fairly long rather alcoholic finish. It's pleasant, in a far from fruit driven key; it revolves more around the vegetal accents of the varietals, and if you like that you will enjoy it. If you prefer berry fruit you won't as much.
2 stars
Poggio al Tesoro
Poggio al Tesoro Vermentino Soldisole Bolgheri 2010
Pale brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is mineral, with some gunflint and slight white berry fruit; with some greenish vegetal accents too. On the palate it's medium bodied and mineral, with tart minerality and underlying bitterness that continues into a rather bitter savory finish. A pleasant, quite direct summer food wine.
2 stars
Poggio al Tesoro Cassiopea Rosato Bolgheri 2010
Pale salmon pink with white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, and mineral, with some sour red berry fruit as well. Still coming together. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderately rich sour raspberry fruit supported by moderately intense sour berry fruit acidity and slight tannins that have a slight burr to them, and flow into a fairly tart slightly vegetal laced finish. Pleasant, in an approachable key with a bit more acidity than the above, and will work very well with foods.
2 stars
Serni Fulvio Luigi
Serni Fulvio Luigi Campofitto Bolgheri Vermentino 2010 Pale brassy yellow with brilliant brassy yellow highlights and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal notes and a fair amount of alcohol supported by some rather brambly spice and bitter almond skins too. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright lemony fruit supported by slightly gunflint minerality and mineral acidity that flow into a fairly bright finish in which the acidity shifts more towards loquat. It will drink quite well with grilled or rfird fish, and also will work well with fried meats and vegetables.
2 stars
Serni Fulvio Luigi Arcanto Bolgheri Rosato 2010 Pale salmon-rose pink with brilliant electric pink reflections. The bouquet is fairly bright, with lively sour wild strawberries supported by some raspberry acidity and some greenish vegetal accents. On the palate it's fairly bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and some greenish vegetal accents that flow into a fairly long peppery finish. A direct wine that's quite up front and will be nice at a picnic or a cookout featuring fish.
2 stars
Terre del Marchesato
Terre del Marchesato Emilio Primo Vermentino Bolgheri 2010
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some greenish accents and hints of scalded milk. Fairly direct. On the palate it's medium bodied, with tart mineral laced fruit supported by citric acidity and some bitterness with underlying sea salt. Fairly direct, and will drink well with simple summer foods.
1 star
Terre del Marchesato Papeo Bolgheri Vermentino 2009
Brilliant brassy yellow with bright brassy reflections. the bouquet is fairly intense, with loquat and white berry fruit supported by sweetness and some greenish minerality with a fair amount of alcohol as well. On the palate it's ample and rather bitter, with minerality more than fruit, and savory accents too that flow into a fairly long bitter savory finish. It's fairly direct, and will work well with foods, though it's not a wine to sip by the glass far from the table.
1 star
Terre del Marchesato Nobile Muffato Bolgheri Vermentino 2007
Brassy yellow with brilliant lemony reflections and white rim. The bouquet is quite distinct from all the others, with rich citric fruit supported by botrytis and greenish accents and quite a bit of alcohol, with some sweetness as well. Unusual. On the palate it's rich and sweet, with bright botrytis-laced lemony fruit supported by bright loquat lemon acidity and by sweetness that gives it a rather voluptuous feel, and flows into a long warm sweet finish kept interesting by citric acidity. It's interesting, and a nice expression of botrytis in a wine from the coast. You may wonder how it compares to the famed botrytized French wines; it's much simpler, but does have a pleasing sunniness to it that is rather enjoyable.
2 stars
Note: the key says it's from grapes that are harvested in early November, and barrel fermented.
Casa di Terra
Casa di Terra Vermentino Bolgheri 2010 Brilliant brassy gold with pinkish ripe banana reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with herbal accents and slight sweetness mingled with bitter almonds and some citrus. On the palate it's ample, and sweeter than the others, with ample minerality supported by some sea salt and peppery accents that flow into a fairly rich sour mineral finish with peppery accents. It's fuller, and more languid than some, and will work well with richly flavored fish.
2 stars
Casa di Terra Allegria Bolgheri Rosato 2010 http://www.fattoriacasaditerra.com/
Pale salmon with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with brambly sour red berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents; fresh and bracing. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry and raspberry fruit supported by bright citric more than berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are light, and flow into a fairly long citric finish. What a Rosé should be, light and zesty, and will drink very well with a wide variety of summer foods. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars
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